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Paint Stripper Application

Preparation and precautions

Lightning Strip Paint & Mastic Remover will not freeze but it performs best in temperatures between 45 and 90 °F. However, one of its unique features is that works even at low temperatures (but slower), as long as it is above freezing.

Do not use in direct sunlight or strong wind! When the stripper dries out, it stops working.

The stripper will dry out skin and cause a burning sensation – wear rubber gloves. If applying overhead, eye protection is recommended.

You will also need: Wide-mouth pliers. Small funnel. Wide putty knife. Stiff bristle brush.

Use in a well-ventilated area. When working in a basement, open up all windows and doors. If needed, get a fan to increase ventilation to the outdoors.

Extinguish all open flames in the area. In a basement, turn off the furnace and extinguish the pilot flame in hot water heater.

Mask items, which could be harmed by the stripper – linoleum, tile, asphalt, aluminum, rubber, and plastics. Will not damage wood, metal or glass.

When stripping floors, do not step on the sprayed surface because it is more slippery than ice.

Read the instructions on the product.

Fill the hand sprayer

Shake the can thoroughly before the first use. The lids are sealed very tight. Using wide-mouth or channel lock pliers, squeeze with enough pressure and unscrew the cap on the can. Fill the spray bottle (included) using a small funnel. Attach the spray head and turn the nozzle to desired spray pattern.

Hand-pump garden sprayer: This greatly speeds up larger projects. But you need a sprayer with a chemical-resistant hose and a brass sprayer wand, which are available in agricultural supplies stores.

Let the stripper do the work!

Do not rush it! Have patience! The stripper is designed to penetrate multiple layers of paint, to stay wet, and to re-activate when re-sprayed. Lightning Strip will do the job if you let it!

When applying the stripper, hold the nozzle only one inch from the surface. Spray on a continuous layer until the surface is wet.

Holding the nozzle 1” from the surface, squeeze the sprayer trigger firmly for maximum flow. Spray on enough until the paint stops absorbing the stripper and the surface stays wet. (Do not just mist it because that would only muddy up the surface and make it gooey.)

Keep the surface wet, re-spray if the surface appears dry but the paint is not yet ready to be removed. This re-activates the stripper. Do not try to strip the surface with just one application!

Wait until all the paint bubbles up (or liquefies) and let the bubbling action finish. No need for forceful scraping, the paint should come off like butter!

Best to try it first in a smaller test area to see how long it takes for the paint to bubble up or liquefy, whether re-spraying is needed, and to get some practice.

You can view a video on the stripper application (in QuickTime). Although it demonstrates stripping furniture, the procedure is similar for paint or adhesives on concrete.

Paint removal

Spray the stripper on a wide and long section of the painted wall or floor. The sprayed surface will stay wet for half an hour or much longer - you can strip a large area at once.

If the stripper has absorbed, making the surface appear dry, re-spray to keep the surface wet. The stripper does not work when dry and re-spraying will re-activate all the previously applied stripper.

Typically, the stripper penetrates through the paint within 5–10 minutes but it could take up to 40 minutes. Some paints bubble up before your eyes but some take much longer. Depends on the paint and its thickness. On very hard paint surfaces, help the stripper penetrate by scrubbing with a stiff bristle or wire brush.

Wait for the bubbling action to stop. Do not rush it – let the stripper work!

Check with a putty knife that the stripper has penetrated all the way to the bare concrete and the paint is loose. If not, let the stripper work or if dry, re-spray.

After the bubbling stops and the paint is loose, scrape it off with a wide putty knife. Since it still contains the stripper, you can push it on top of still unsprayed paint. Subsequent spraying will re-activate it, saving material.

Some paints (latex-based) will liquefy, instead of bubbling up. Remove by wiping it off with a rag or paper towels.

If you have a pressure washer, that will greatly speed up the paint removal, particularly on rough surfaces, and will neutralize the residue at the same time.

Clean up and neutralize

The stripper must be neutralized with water (no thinners or chemicals needed). Rinse off the surface with clean water and scrub with a stiff bristle brush.

Discard the scraped off paint in a box lined with plastic or a garbage bag, neutralize with water and let evaporate.

Tips on stripping rough concrete

Lightning Strip also lifts paint from inside the pores in concrete because it stays wet and works down into the pores. But repeated applications may be needed on concrete blocks and bricks.

Concrete blocks and bricks are very porous. A pressure washer speeds up the paint removal. After removing the paint, it may still leave a hazy film because of paint stuck inside the pores. This could prevent sealers from penetrating.

TSP technique: Mix six or more cups of TSP (Trisodium Phosphate – a heavy duty detergent sold in hardware stores) in a 5-gallon bucket of hot water. Stir until mixed. Use a stiff brush and scrub the surface with this solution. Rinse with hot water if possible. If the concrete is extremely porous or rough, you may need to repeat this procedure. (Dawn dishwashing liquid or household soap powders may be used instead of TSP, but they do not clean as well.)

Stripping bricks or stone walls

The surface of bricks, limestone, sandstone, and rock walled houses is even rougher than concrete blocks.

If you are stripping the outside brick on a house, work on the shaded side. Do not try to strip the side in direct sunlight!

Start at the top by applying a heavy coat of the paint remover and work your way to the bottom.

Standard procedure:
Spray on 1" from the surface a heavy coat of the stripper and wait 10 minutes.
Re-spray dry areas and wait 10 minutes.
Scrape off with a putty knife.
Re-spray for final clean-up to remove hazy film and specs in pores. Scrub with a TSP solution (above).

If the brick has multiple layers of paint, spray on a heavy coat of the paint remover and let sit one hour. Then, re-spray and wait 10 minutes. Check to see if paint is loose and remove.

Stripping heavy black mastic

It takes time for the stripper to penetrate through a thick layer of mastic. Spray a section with Lightning Strip very wet and let it work overnight. The next morning, re-spray the section very wet and check with a putty knife if it loosens. If not, re-spray again and wait 10-15 minutes between sprays. Remove with a putty knife or pressure-washer.

Some final tips

If you stop for the day, pour any surplus from the sprayer back into the can. Fill the sprayer with clean water and spritz 8-10 times to clean out the bottle and spray head. Before re-using the sprayer, make sure the tube inside the bottle curves towards the front. If using a large sprayer, clean it thoroughly with water after each use.


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Products not sold through retail stores. Available exclusively from:
Radon Mitigation & Waterproofing Concrete Sealer Co.
Novion Inc., 18 L'Hermitage Drive, Shelton, CT 06484 USA
RadonSeal™ is a registered trademark. Copyright © 1998-2008. All rights reserved.

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