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CITY WATER PRESSURE – Required 40 to 100 psi at the pump – the normal range for residential service. A pressure of 50 to 70 psi is most common. You can check with your local water supplier or Building Department or test it with a standard static pressure gauge.
TYPE OF PIPING – Install using copper or plastic piping which is approved in your area. Do not connect to or install using galvanized iron pipe (reduced flow due to calcium buildup and a risk of rust or debris breaking loose). Connecting pipe sizes:
FLOW RESTRICTIONS – The water supply piping for the pump must be “teed in” before any devices that restrict water flow, such as a water softener, filter, or pressure regulator valves (PRV). However, if the pressure is too high, connect after a PRV.
PRIVATE WELL – If you are on a private well, the water pressure is not sufficient and you have to use a battery-powered back-up pump instead.
Pressure alone is not enough - what counts is how much water flow it delivers to the pump! Remove the garden hose from an outside spigot and place a 5-gallon bucket under the spout. Open the spigot fully and measure with a watch how long it takes to fill the bucket to its full mark – usually a couple inches below the top. You must be able to fill the bucket within the following maximum time for each pump model:
The water connection to the hose spigot is usually only 1/2" and the spigot itself further restricts the flow but these restrictions are similar to those inside the pump. However, "Frost-Proof" spigots greatly restrict water flow – deduct 30% of the measured time! Do not test at the laundry tub, which often has smaller supply tubes and a more restrictive faucet. This test is not valid if the line to the hose spigot connects after a water filter or water softener.